Uhrinstinkt Magazine
If the self-winding masterpiece is worn only occasionally, the power reserve reaches its limits and the movement comes to a standstill. Many experts share the opinion that exclusive time indicators do not like the condition in the long term. Regardless, it is convenient not to have to make all the adjustments after a period of rest. We reveal which watch winders are recommended for your Rolex and preferences.
Ideal for most Rolex calibers – 650 rotations daily
Automatic movements, with their special functional elements, store the energy generated by arm movements when worn. This eliminates the need to wind the watch by hand or integrate a battery. Collectors’ pieces rest in their caskets. Precious masterpieces are only conjured up on special occasions. To keep them going anyway, watch winders come into play. They simulate the absence of body movement so that the movement does not have to be constantly reset. This is because the procedure for numerous watch functions is not only time-consuming, but can also be complicated. This is true, for example, of masterpieces with sophisticated complications such as the perpetual calendar.
Watch winders and the turns per day
Every caliber wants a minimum number of turns per day to maintain accuracy and avoid stalling. The property is captured by the English technical term “turns per day”, which is hidden behind the abbreviation TPD. When wearing a watch, it is normal that the movements of the arm sometimes generate more energy than would be necessary for automatic winding. Accordingly, it is basically harmless if a watch winder confronts the movement with too many rotations.
However, it is common to provide only a moderate power reserve during the storage phase, even if the caliber allows more. In this way, luxury watch enthusiasts spare the watch winder as well as the movement and curb the power consumption of the accessories. Although 650 TPD has proven optimal for almost all Rolex calibers, there are exceptions. Some Skydweller watches, for example, want 800 TPD.
Testing watch winders
Each watch, which was made by hand, is unique. This is especially true for aged collectors’ pieces. That’s why you should start a test with your own Rolex in the watch winder: If the movement runs smoothly, it stays at the recommended minimum TPD. If noticeable inaccuracies creep in, give the automatic movement a little more movement.
Manufacturer recommendation for most calibers from Rolex – alternating rotation mode
Automatic movements wind in a clockwise or counterclockwise direction. Another variant is the bilateral winding, which most Rolex families profess. To ensure that the accessories harmonize with different movements, you can choose between right-hand, left-hand and alternating rotations on almost all watch winders.
The Swiss watchmaker mostly recommends the latter mode with regular changes of direction for its masterpieces. However, older calibers from the global brand can be found that only capture the required energy during clockwise movements. The Daytona Cosmograph 4130 is a successful example of this, which is moved in the so-called CW rotation mode (right) with 800 to 950 TPD.
The watch winders of renowned brands are always designed to gently keep the timepieces going. Sometimes, the ambition to imitate the influences of wearing a watch in a particularly authentic way is added. In our test, for example, the Elma Motion series imitates a sleep phase that can be regulated individually.
This also seemed sensible to us in the test: The Sens from Designhütte is one of those movers that complete the rotation workload in several cycles during the day.
In the test: move and store watches in the ensemble
With the exquisite collection often masterpieces of other manufactures join the Rolex watch in the watch winder. The test on your own and the general experience can suggest different movement programs for the inserted lovers’ pieces. Well thought-out accessories for watch ensembles respond to this, for example the Modalo series Safe Systems or Heisse & Söhne collection Watch Master as well as the modular product lines Boxy by Beco or One by Chronovision. With their design concept, they allow settings to be made separately for each watch. In this way, it is also possible to bundle specimens that desire different rotation directions and TPD programs in one movement solution.
Leisure time is accompanied by the iconic heirloom Datejust, which is as reminiscent of the adventurous grandfather as it is of Reinhold Messner, who conquered Mount Everest with the Rolex. In everyday business, the Sky-Dweller proves itself with its second time zone and comfortable power reserve, which continues to run during the rest period at the weekend. More for investment and exceptional moments are the preciousnesses – the “Pepsi” Meteorite Chronometer and the Day-Date with President band in Everose gold. Combined storage solutions, for example from the Basel product line by Designhütte or Gentlemen by Paul Design, prove their worth in the collection outlined. They stage the watchmaker highlights in the showcase, which are moved regularly to match the programming. An additional compartment is ideal for storing watches that are used more frequently.
Customized accessories for the moving Rolex collection
Most manufacturers treat their watch accessories to an elegant appearance and transparent fronts to present the masterpieces appropriately. Partly, LED lighting underlines the presentation – for example, the Paul Design Gentlemen product series proves its charm in our test. If the accessory unites several movers, quality-loving brands pay attention to subtleties: After completion of the rotation program or in the sleep phase, all timepieces are automatically aligned in a 12 o’clock position. Thus, one is pleased with a harmonious overall picture.
High-quality watch winders in the test always offer several setting options for the Rolex collection, so that you can optimize the daily rotation program to suit the automatic watch. The simpler models are operated with classic controls, while complex devices feature modern LCD panels. In the meantime, advanced control solutions via Bluetooth and app have been added, which worked well in the test – for example, in the Chronovision One collection.
Each wristwatch of the luxury brand has a considerable value. Understandable is the desire to slow down quick access, which the lockable Heisse & Söhne Collector fulfills. Caskets for safes should be as space-saving and self-sufficient as possible. The Modalo Safe Systems and Swiss Kubik watch winders in our test are not only strikingly compact in design, but also allow battery operation.
Watch winder design – as presentable as timepieces
In general, many watch winders are suitable for the Rolex. However, testing in everyday collecting shows to what extent the handling suits personal preferences. It may be wise to first try out a manufacturer’s 1-watch winder. If it is convincing, there is nothing to be said against purchasing an impressive watch winder for the care of numerous masterpieces.
The aluminum cubes from Swiss Kubik look stylish, the Beco Boxy modules sporty-puristic and the Elma wooden caskets sophisticated-opulent: Whether you match the look to your home decor or the design to your watch collection is up to you. The aesthetic range is impressive in the test, so that the Watch Winder fits perfectly to the aesthetic and functional desires.
