Uhrinstinkt Magazine
« From Max Bill to Mido »
Watches are among the most spectacular gifts we can give a loved one. But art enthusiasts and architects in particular are demanding target groups who have exact ideas about a beautiful timepiece. Today we present five models that make clear statements for specific art eras and all have what it takes to be the ideal architect’s watch.
What characterizes a good watch for architects?
Whether art historians, passionate collectors or architects: People who are familiar with the effect of artistic works look behind the scenes of an object or painting. In addition to the pure, emotionally felt beauty of the work, the deeper meaning of an aesthetic appeal plays the central role for them. So, if you are looking for a gift for architects from the watch sector, you must choose a timepiece with a clear aesthetic message. A Bauhaus watch, for example, that focuses every millimeter of its appearance on functional simplicity. Or a splendidly ornamented Art Nouveau model with floral ornaments. The watch must not be a “middle thing”, but should appeal to a firmly defined taste in all its visual details.
The Eiffel Tower sends its regards: Mido Commander Gradient
When the Paris Eiffel Tower was completed for the 1889 World’s Fair, its steely and functional architecture was met with outrage, especially among the educated upper classes. Today, the ultimate landmark of the Seine metropolis is loved worldwide and has inspired the number one architect watch brand, Mido, to design its new Mido Commander collection. Our favorite is the Commander Gradient (Ref. M021.407.11.411.00): While its transparent dial evokes the translucency of the French tourist magnet, the graduated smoke effect makes reference to its steel color. Towards the rim, the Architekten watch turns black, so that its applied stainless steel indices can be read with high contrast, as can the date display. On the back of the 40-millimeter stainless steel watch, we are greeted by a transparent case back that reveals the Mido 80 automatic movement (base: ETA C07.611) with a whopping 80-hour power reserve. Like the Eiffel Tower, the work of art attached to the stainless steel solid bracelet has no superfluous lines: The overall Mido design is clear, straightforward and “inspired by architecture”.
Bauhaus with merits: Junghans Max Bill Chronoscope
Aesthetic clarity is also the focus of our next watch for architects: Max Bill by Junghans. Ever since it was designed by the Swiss artist of the same name in 1961, it has been considered a prototypical Bauhaus watch and has only minimally changed its no-frills look over the decades. “Form follows function” – straight lines and radical minimalism are the order of the day here. A particularly interesting Junghans model is the Max Bill Chronoscope (Ref. 27/4600.04), which adds the functional benefit of a time stopper to the basic model.
We find it amazing how cleverly the chronograph has been integrated into the overall design of the 40-millimeter beauty: Under the curved hard plexiglass, the usual reduction to the essentials dominates, supplemented by a wafer-thin 30-minute counter in the upper half and a 12-hour scale in the lower half. Even the date, which disturbs the aesthetic harmony of many watches, is flawlessly integrated into the silver-plated surface of the Junghans Max Bill. The architect’s watch draws its power from the caliber J880.2 (basis: ETA 7750) with automatic winding and 48-hour power reserve. “Inspired by architecture” – this time stopper from Junghans makes Bauhaus enthusiasts happy.
Art Nouveau in oval splendor: Frederique Constant Classics Art Déco Oval
The Frederique Constant Classics Art Déco Oval (Ref. FC-200MPW2V6) shows us that a watch for architects can also serve completely different tastes: Created for the female wrist, the 30×25 millimeter slim stainless steel work of art is a perfect representation of Art Nouveau. While ornate Breguet hands and a guilloché surface in the center of the dial represent the high decorative art of Art Deco, the large Roman numerals catapult us back to the 1920s as if by magic. Swing, champagne and Charleston – with this watch, the Roaring Twenties come to life on the wrist.
Visually, mind you – on the technical side, this chic gift for architects holds a modern quartz movement with a whopping 63 months of battery life, allowing for a fragile-looking height of just 6.8 millimeters. Lightweight, compact and loaded with artistic meaning, this masterpiece will blow any architect’s mind. The brand proves that Frederique Constant is serious about its motto of “affordable luxury” with top-quality workmanship and fine details like the mother-of-pearl segments of the dial.
Edgy and modern: NOMOS Glashütte Tetra
Back to Bauhaus: Anyone who loves the clear design of the Weimar art school should get to know NOMOS Glashütte as well as Junghans. One of the most striking editions from the up-and-coming top brand from Saxony is the square-shaped NOMOS Glashütte Tetra, which uses corners and edges to pursue a modern, extremely consistent design language. Our favorite architect’s watch is the Tetra Neomatik 39 silvercut (Ref. 423): 33×33 millimeters slim, the stainless steel model has the best unisex qualities and draws attention to its silver dial, which is reminiscent of the stainless steel facades of modern skyscrapers.
Special treatment with gold plating, rhodium plating and wet blasting is needed to achieve the cool effect. Blued hour and minute hands and a small seconds hand in red bring life to the cool overall design. Through a sapphire crystal case back, the 7.3 millimeter thin icon lets you look into its DUW 3001 automatic movement, which is equipped with the revolutionary NOMOS Swing System, a completely self-developed escapement. If you want to show clear edges in the truest sense of the word, you’ve come to the right place.
High-end Gothic charm: Breguet Tradition
Pointed arch windows, a soaring skeletal structure and filigree ornamentation – the Gothic is one of the most important architectural styles of all time. Anyone entering Paris’ inland island “Île de la Cité,” the birthplace of the legendary luxury brand Breguet, is almost overwhelmed by Gothic beauty. In its most distinctive collection, the Breguet Tradition line, the watchmaker’s designers have realized key elements of the architectural style to perfection: While the unobstructed view of the wheel train and escapement on the front corresponds with the Gothic skeleton construction, the decoration of the hand-wound 507 DR1 manufacture movement is on par with the magnificent ornamentation of a cathedral. Many models are available; an absolute classic is the Ref. 7057BR/G9/9W6 in 18-karat red gold.
With a diameter of 40 millimeters, the watch for architects sits discreetly on the wrist in terms of size, but not visually. The Tradition wants to be an eye-catcher and leaves astonished watch fans in no doubt about its prominent status. Those who want additional functions to the hour and minute on the noble mini dial will find what they are looking for in the collection: GMT models, chronographs and even a tourbillon can be brought to the wrist of the watch-loving architect if the budget is right.
