Uhrinstinkt Magazine
« Film watches from the archives »
Like the physicist, the American brand is also known for its pioneering achievements. Christopher Nolan chose Hamilton for his Oppenheimer historical film not only for this reason, but also out of a love of authentic and precise staging. The vintage timepieces that the film watch specialist carefully selected for the wrists of the main actors were a perfect match for his requirements.
Time indicator of the official railroad supplier for Oppenheimer
After the company was founded in 1892, word quickly spread that Hamilton attached great importance to quality and precision. The same goal was being pursued by the railroad, which was just establishing itself in the United States and had a problem: accidents were not uncommon, mainly due to inaccurate timekeeping.
The shortcoming changed thanks to the collaboration with the watchmaker. Soon after, his timepieces became popular in the USA as “The Watch of Railroad Accuracy”. The glorious debut was not only honored by the manufacturer with the American Classic Railroad Auto, but also by Christopher Nolan with his decision to use the brand as a film outfitter. Given its history and values, it seems plausible that Robert Oppenheimer wore the watches that the US government trusted for railroad punctuality.
Hamilton’s American Classic Railroad Auto features the typical elements of pocket-sized railroad watches with a silver dial and rose-colored case. The most striking feature is the 60 scale on the edge of the case for reading the minutes and seconds. The hour scale can be found in small format in the center. If the dial design reminds you of the wheels of historic steam locomotives, you’re in the right place.
Functional elegance for the scientist – Cushion B, Lexington & Endicott
Robert Oppenheimer’s mission as scientific director of the Manhattan Project was bizarre: he was to develop an atomic bomb that could theoretically destroy the world in order to save it in the face of international threats. Even if the historical drama of the same name is worth seeing precisely because of this contradiction, Christopher Nolan lived up to his reputation: no detail seems illogical or out of place. In keeping with the director’s aspirations, Hamilton organized elegant functional clocks for Oppenheimer from collectors in a discreet Art Deco style.
One of the first brand collections for the wrist was called “Geometrics” because of its shape. This included the gold-plated Cushion B with a 26.7 mm diameter and lizard leather strap. Initially, the combination of cushion-shaped case and round watch glass was typical. Later, both components were accentuated in a square shape on the striking entry-level watch, which was advertised as “The Man’s Cushion” and produced until the early 1930s.
The second of the Oppenheimer watches, the Lexington, appears on the screen with a 29 mm case and black dial design. It only appeared in this color in the brand catalog and was only available for one year in the 1940s. The plot of the Oppenheimer thriller hints at the reason: The company had to concentrate on war production.
Hamilton also chose a model from the Endicott collection for Oppenheimer, which was popular with American men between 1938 and 1948 and was available with various dial options. The earlier variants included Oppenheimer’s 27.8 mm film version with gold numerals.
The inner workings of Hamilton’s timepieces play a key role in the idea that they match Oppenheimer: it can be assumed that a high-precision movement inspired the physicist. The same applies to modern watch lovers, whose hearts the brand has captured with the Jazzmaster Open-Heart Auto. The 42 mm men’s version showcases the H-10 caliber with partial skeletonization. The automatic movement has earned the aesthetic tribute: thanks to it, the Hamilton Jazzmaster Open-Heart Auto impresses with an 80-hour power reserve.
Salon-capable piping skirt and operational military ordinance for Leslie Groves
When it comes to the Oppenheimer props, Hamilton cleverly remembers that a lieutenant in the US Army has different expectations of timepieces than a quantum physicist. As a more elegant service watch, Leslie Groves wears a Piping Rock, which made its screen debut in 1932 in the Marlene Dietrich film “Shanghai Express”.
In Sternberg’s love story, Hamilton’s design icon was presented in noble gold and with a cover. Oppenheimer’s military colleague, on the other hand, wears an early 30 mm steel version with Roman numerals on the bezel, the dimensions of which were impressive for the time. The same applied to the 32 mm Military Ordonance functional watch with a steel case and striking numerals from the 1940s.
Movie watches and military watches are traditional focal points of Hamilton. The Khaki Navy Frogman Auto is a reminder of this in the current brand range. With its bridge-shaped crown guard, uncluttered dial design and bold hands, it is based on the first diving watches for the US Navy in the 1950s. Specifically, the historical model was used to equip a Navy special forces unit: The Frogmen. A 1951 war film revolved around them, in which the navy watch was featured. The Khaki Navy Frogman Auto also refers to this and is now recommended as a companion for an active lifestyle.
Lady Hamilton A-2 – Jewelry for the lady at Oppenheimer’s side
The great love of the scientific director of the US atomic bomb project was from Recklinghausen and came to the United States because her father was pursuing a career there. Although the political public’s enthusiasm for the botanist and communist was limited, they married in 1940.
The dainty Lady Hamilton A-2 (1947) made of gold, which adorns Kitty Oppenheimer in the historical film, resembles a declaration of love. If you would prefer to wear the cocktail watch yourself, the American Classic brand collection has you covered. The Lady Hamilton Vintage Quartz is a contemporary interpretation of the 1950s design. The plum blue design version with four diamonds adds a touch of extravagance.
Zooming in on the nostalgic supporting cast fuels the suspicion that the watch brand has an impressive film history beyond the Oppenheimer thriller. Correct! Its timepieces have appeared in more than 500 films, which Hamilton is celebrating with the Jazzmaster Auto Capsule Collection. Together with other special models, the three-hand watch conjures up well-dosed Hollywood glamor on the wrist. Men or women? The black and gold Jazzmaster Auto does not specify.
