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Recognize phonies

« No chance for knock-offs of Rolex, Breitling and Co. »

Blenders, counterfeits, and Franken-watches are a phenomenon that affects far more than just the best-known brands. In addition to the typical Rolex or Breitling blender, counterfeit watches can be found in almost all price segments. According to the Swiss Watch Industry Association FH, there are now more counterfeits in circulation than originals. Blenders are becoming more professional and increasingly difficult to distinguish from the real luxury watch. But there are indicators that, if carefully considered, reliably protect against fakes.

Overview and delimitation: types of counterfeiting in the watch segment

There are several types of fake watches available in the confusing market. Knowledge of these common types will help enthusiasts identify the differences of fake ladies or men’s watches from the original.

Imitation

Among the most common types are imitations. These look very similar to the original watches, but are made of inferior materials and often have flaws in terms of workmanship, weight and details. They are often sold as cheaper alternatives to the originals. Some counterfeiters illegally promote such men’s or women’s watches as originals.

Woman shows luxury watch
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Replica

Closely related to imitations are replicas. Replicas are watches that are very close to the original watches in terms of design, materials and workmanship. They are designed to be deceptively similar to the real model in terms of quality as well. They often bear quality marks such as “Swiss Made” and are difficult to distinguish from the originals. Replicas are therefore usually considerably more expensive than simple imitations. Replicas are especially popular for historical models or models that are no longer manufactured, as horrendous collector’s prices are called for such models.

Various watches in a display case
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Hommage / Reminiscence

Not a direct fake is the homage. Homages are watches that imitate the design of famous luxury watch brands, but are sold under their own brand name. They aim to imitate the style and appearance of the original watches without being considered direct plagiarism. However, the quality and movement may differ from the models.

Special case Franken watches

A special position is occupied by so-called Franken-Watches. The name is derived from the character of Frankenstein by Mary Shelley. Just as the famous creature from the horror novel was made from various corpse parts, the Franken-Watch consists of a wide variety of components. These can be partly originals, but also partly inferior parts of no further known origin. This type of timepiece is thus not a pure fake, but occupies a special position, depending on the design more or less close to the original.

GMT-Master 16700 with Rolex caliber 3175

Franken-watches, for example, may contain an original case with a fake movement or vice versa. Popular models like the Rolex Submariner, for example, are often equipped with generic movements instead of the expensive manufacture caliber. Therefore, a trained look into the movement may be required for accurate identification.

Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea

Frequency and brands

It is difficult to provide exact figures on how often counterfeit watches from specific manufacturers occur. Well-known and renowned brands are attractive targets for counterfeiters, so Rolex blenders, Breitling blenders or TAG Heuer blenders are common. However, Mido blenders or Hamilton blenders also flood the market. Brands that serve mid-price segments are also affected. Swiss manufacturers such as Oris, Fortis or Certina can be targets for counterfeiters, as can Japanese luxury watches from Seiko. Blenders affect ladies’ watches and men’s watches alike.

It should be noted that the availability and prevalence of counterfeit watches can vary greatly from region to region. In some countries and markets where trademark enforcement is less strict, more blenders may be in circulation. In other regions with stricter laws and surveillance measures, counterfeits may be less common.

Market in Hong Kong
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Identification of a phony: the main indications

Detecting counterfeits can be a challenge because the plagiarism is often thoughtfully implemented. Nevertheless, there are some clues customers can look for to identify plagiarism.

Significant price deviation

It is often possible, especially with used watches, to save some money compared to the recommended retail price. However, if the price seems too cheap to be true, be careful. If the price of the watch you want is significantly lower than the usual market value, this may be a sign of an imitation, replica or other deviation. High-end luxury watches usually have high prices, which are not only due to brand prestige. Elaborate mechanical chronograph calibers, tourbillons, and other feats of craftsmanship are already highly priced to manufacture.

Young couple, online shopping by laptop
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Processing quality

Genuine luxury watches are made with great care and have high-quality workmanship. Fake models may have defects in workmanship, some of which are visible to the naked eye. In other cases, they require closer inspection. The most important and common workmanship defects on a fake watch include unclean engravings, sharp edges, poorly attached dials, as well as incorrect fonts on the dial.

Materials used

Fine watches are often made of high-quality materials such as stainless steel, gold or platinum. Watch glasses are often made of sapphire crystal. A blinder may use inferior materials that are easier to detect. Therefore, a supposedly genuine watch should always be checked for the quality of the materials used. Particular attention should be paid to signs of rust, wear or color differences.

Maurice Lacroix Aikon Automatic Skeleton with reference no. AI6028-SS002-030-1

Interior and movement

The movement is the heart of a watch and is of high quality in high-end models. Counterfeit watches may have inferior movements or even quartz movements installed instead of the expected mechanical movements. It can be difficult to check the movement without opening the case. Some models have a glass viewing caseback, others do not. If in doubt, it is advisable to have the opening done by a qualified watchmaker. He can take a look at the inner workings and detect any signs of inferior calibers.

Box, papers and reference number

Luxury watches are in most cases a coherent overall package consisting of a high-quality watch box, certificates and the watch itself. If the watch has a Swiss chronometer caliber, for example, a certificate from the COSC (Contrôle officiel suisse des chronomètres) is always included.

Many luxury watches come with an individual serial number or reference number engraved on the case or certificate. The serial number must be verified for authenticity and it must be ensured that it matches the original manufacturer’s records. Certificates of authenticity often include security features such as holograms or watermarks.

Rolex Submariner with reference no. 114060

In principle, it should be noted that these indicators are not always unambiguous. If there are still questions about the authenticity of a watch, in case of doubt, it is recommended to consult authorized dealers or experts who can help with the clear identification.

Safe watch purchase at Uhrinstinkt

Guaranteed authenticity with all papers you get in the luxury watches online store of Uhrinstinkt. Reliable originals with a good feeling at a fair price await you here.