Uhrinstinkt Magazine
« When the metal strap is too big »
The new dream watch is delivered, your anticipation increases immeasurably, and after the initial euphoria, a small disappointment: the metal bracelet does not fit. The good news: you don’t need watchmaking skills to remove or add links on your own. Read on to find out how to make the operation a success, which tools are indispensable, and how to handle different types of bracelets.
Remove links – a job for the watchmaker?
If the metal strap is too large or fits too tightly, there are two options: Going to a watchmaker or fixing it on your own. For the jeweler, the procedure is a small matter, takes a few minutes, and should cost an average of 20 to 30 euros if the links are intact. The best decision for anyone who does not own a large collection of watches and rarely faces the task of reducing their metal strap. Enthusiasts with larger collections, on the other hand, will need to make regular modifications to their bracelets, making it worthwhile to purchase professional tools. Removing links without tools? For heaven’s sake! If you want to save your luxury watch from ugly scratches and other damage, you should stay away from improvised home remedies and instruments from the garage workshop. The watchmaker’s tools needed to remove links don’t cost a fortune and should be of reasonable quality for long-term reliability.
Before you start working: the right preparation
Before making any wristwatch band adjustments, identify the type of fastener: While most luxury brands connect their high-end links with screws these days, older models and entry-level watches often rely on pins. We’ll explain which tool you need in each case later. First, determine if any watch links need to be removed at all: Minor adjustments to length are allowed by most metal bands at the clasp, for which a toothpick will suffice. The rule of thumb for a well-fitting strap is that a little finger should still fit between the underside of the case and the wrist with a little effort. If this cannot be achieved by simply adjusting the clasp, metal links must be added or removed.
Before you start working, note the following:
- Prepare level work place with soft base
- Determine number of metal links that need to be removed or added. If there are several links, they should be removed/added alternately to the right and left of the clasp to maintain symmetry.
- Spring bar tool: The fastening of the individual links to each other (screw/pins) does not have to correspond to the fastening with which the metal band is fixed to the watch case. If there is no screw connection and no strap quick-change system (e.g. Zenith, Sinn watches, TAG Heuer), you typically need a spring bar tool.
Remove screwed links
Equipment: To reduce or increase the size of a watch whose metal link strap is connected with screws, a single tool is enough with the watchmaker’s screwdriver. The perfect measure is essential, which is why we recommend buying a set that costs 10-20 euros with about six different sizes in good quality. Differentiated by color, the sizes typically start at 0.5 millimeters. In addition, you should use a tape holding block (about 10 euros) to create a stable foundation for the work process and minimize the likelihood of slipping. Alternatively, both tools can be purchased in a combined device (tape loosener).
Procedure: Once the appropriate screwdriver is selected, loosen one link by removing the screws on both sides. Then remove the link, bring the two adjacent watch links together and screw them back on both sides. The process is simple as can be, but there is a special feature to note: Many luxury brands such as Zenith, Tag Heuer or Sinn watches use special glue to compensate for shocks and avoid slow unscrewing of the screws. Two types of adhesive exist: One must be heated to at least 60 degrees Celsius to loosen, and the other dissolves at room temperature. Typically, both allow the wristwatch to be adjusted on its own without any problems. However, if resistance is felt, we recommend going to a watchmaker.
With pins: loosen watch links professionally
Equipment: Whether Tissot, Hamilton or Oris – many watch brands of the more affordable price segment connect their straps with pins. To reduce such a metal strap, you will need one of the following alternatives, depending on the nature of the pins:
- Pin ejector: suitable if the pins can be removed in a normal to smooth manner.
- Combination pin punch and watchmaker’s hammer: for tighter fitting pins.
- Pin ejector machine: professional device with fixed strap and fixed pin position. Ideal if there is uncertainty about one’s own sensitivity.
Procedure: Many manufacturers mark with small arrows on the inner links whether and in which direction the respective link can be pushed out. Use the pin extractor to carefully push the pins (in the direction of the arrow) a few millimeters out of the metal link strap. Then, the pin should be pulled out completely with a fine pair of pliers. We strongly advise against pushing the pin completely through to avoid jamming or breaking. If the pin is too stiff, the combination of a pin extractor and watchmaker’s hammer is needed. The pin ejector is to be placed perfectly straight on the pin and, with careful blows of the hammer (metal side), to be driven into the metal link until the pin can be pulled out of the other side. Remove the link, reduce the watch and join the open ends of the band. Finally, insert the pin and tap it completely into the metal band with the soft rubber side of the hammer.
Milanese strap: self shortening possible?
Oris, Tissot, Hamilton: many popular watch brands are increasingly using the milanese bracelet to give their models an elegant, modern look. It is often not immediately obvious how to shorten this bracelet independently: the elements are extremely delicate and closely connected with almost no gaps. If this metal strap is too large, there is often a simple way to shorten it: remove links without tools. This is possible because the individual elements are connected by a so-called slide. The latter can be opened by hand and then moved in the desired direction.
Depending on your wishes, it is possible to lengthen or shorten the belt, but to a limited extent. The displacement of the carriage must allow the protruding belt ends to disappear under it. Then lock the locking cap to fix the carriage in its new position. If longer band adjustments are necessary, we advise against doing it yourself and recommend going to a watchmaker. He has the right tools to remove the links.
