Uhrinstinkt Magazine
Time travel on the wrist: for true enthusiasts, the wristwatch is not an accessory but an attitude to life and even has the power to make long-gone decades tangible again. In 2023, retro models will become a big trend: from the glorious pre-war era to the swinging sixties, luxury brands are helping their most legendary classics to regain their brilliance.
Art deco style in perfection: Girard Perregaux Vintage 1945 XXL Large Date Moonphase
Sensual forms, exclusive abundance: In the early 20th century, the Art Deco style dominated art and architecture. A prime example of the stepped forms, aerodynamic curves and clear symmetry of the style is New York’s Chrysler Building. Girard Perregaux provides a second ideal with the Vintage 1945 XXL Large Date Moonphase (Ref. 25882-11-121-BB6B), whose rectangular case is most striking for its strong curvature.
Together with its sapphire crystal, the moderately sized retro wristwatch is curved in a way that ensures a perfect fit to the wearer’s wrist. A look at the dial reveals several highlights: In addition to the ornate typography of the Arabic numerals, we are particularly touched by the moon phase, which could not be more in keeping with the vintage romanticism of the luxury watch. Dauphine hands, small seconds and railroad minute track complete the noble look. The curved Art Deco classic is powered by the in-house automatic movement GP03300, the decoration of which is revealed through a glass back and, like all the details of the watch, testifies to absolute top class.
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Elegant journey back in time to the 30s: MIDO Multifort Powerwind Limited Edition
In 1934, in the midst of the Art Deco heyday, MIDO launched its legendary Multifort collection, which remained the company’s absolute best-seller until 1950, combining four features that were revolutionary at the time: Water resistance, shock resistance, magnetic protection and an automatic winding mechanism. Today, the wristwatch is pure retro and returns to the spotlight with the MIDO Multifort Powerwind Limited Edition (Ref. M040.407.16.060.00): limited to 1,954 pieces, the beauty seduces its beholder with the midnight blue sunburst of its domed dial and displays maximum attention to detail despite its affordable price range. Applied indices and diamond-cut hands in rose gold color bring life to the retro wristwatch, whose automatic ETA 2836-2 movement has a coveted COSC certificate. At the same time, the 40-millimeter case impresses with a stylish mix of polished and brushed stainless steel. The only point of criticism: the white Day-Date complication, which is useful, but brings a break in the symmetry and midnight blue elegance of the wristwatch.
Homage to a diving icon: Oris Divers Sixty-Five
Vintage or retro? With the Oris Divers Sixty-Five, the independent manufacturer from Hölstein addresses both target groups and presents a spectacular variety of models. The 100-meter water-resistant timepiece is based on a legendary diver’s watch from 1965, with which Oris successfully entered the maritime segment. One of our clear favorites is the bicolor version in stainless steel and bronze (Ref. 01 733 7707 4355-07 8 20 17): It’s not just the rarity of the copper-tin alloy and its strong patina that set the watch apart from the crowd, but also the two-tone aesthetic, which brings a sympathetic touch of the eighties to the wrist. Paired with the blue of the dial and its clear curvature, the result is an expressive overall image with an impressive character. Technically, the retro wristwatch has no weaknesses: While the Sellita-based 733 automatic movement guarantees reliable propulsion, the relatively compact diameter of 40 millimeters is reminiscent of the slim dimensions that characterized distinguished men’s watches in the mid-20th century.
Purist elegance of the sixties: Glashütte Original Sixties Panorama Date
Socially, the sixties were a time of upheaval and went down in history as an upbeat, free-thinking decade. Horology was distinguished by timeless classics with beautiful lines during the heyday of the Beatles and miniskirts, as demonstrated by the Glashütte Original Sixties Panorama Date (Ref. 2-39-47-06-02-04). The aesthetic journey through time begins on the domed dial, where slightly curved hands and striking numerals, completely unconventional in the Sixties style, capture our gaze. The eye is captured by the panoramic date: inspired by the famous clock in Dresden’s Semper Opera House, it is a trademark of the luxury manufacturer and blends seamlessly into the overall picture. We also can’t get enough of the stainless steel case of the retro wristwatch and its seductive simplicity. An automatic manufacture movement with swan-neck fine adjustment and the finest finish provides propulsion. It doesn’t have to stay with the dark blue shown here: The Sixties dial is known for exotic colors like fiery orange (Ref. 2-39-47-09-02-04), which definitely deserve a closer look.
Return of the legendary cocktail watch: Hamilton American Classic Lady Hamilton Vintage Quartz
First manufactured by Tiffany & Co. at the beginning of the 20th century, the cocktail watch celebrated a glamorous breakthrough in high society and provided the lady of class with exactly what she wanted: an ornate, luxurious arm decoration that at first glance looks like a bracelet and incidentally has a small dial for reading the time from time to time. Noble ladies did not obviously look at her wrist back then.
Today, the glamorous cocktail watch celebrates its comeback with the Hamilton American Classic Lady Hamilton Vintage Quartz (Ref. H31271113). Eye-catcher number one is the chain bracelet, on which there is a tiny stainless steel case measuring 15×19 millimeters with royal decoration. The overall look of the wristwatch is retro and antique at the same time, making the Lady Hamilton a special jewel in today’s watch world. Women who want to elegantly stand out from the crowd in 2023 are in the right place. By the way, if you want a more exotic case at the next cocktail party, gold-plated, black and even purple alternatives are available.
Classic lines, state-of-the-art technology: Grand Seiko Heritage
Contrasting with the playful Lady Hamilton, the Grand Seiko Retro watches of the Heritage collection are well-balanced and simple in design, transporting the 60s style of the Japanese high-end brand into the 21st century and combining it with state-of-the-art technology. Known for its fabulous Zaratsu polish and unrivaled attention to detail, the Grand Seiko Heritage can be ordered with three drives: Quartz for starters, Automatic for traditionalists and the famous Spring Drive System for those who want to experience Grand Seiko Retro watches at their most mechanically impressive. Our insider tip in the large collection: the reference SBGA439. Against the night sky with a dark blue background, the diamond-cut hands and hour-markers come into their own perfectly. The 40-millimeter luxury wristwatch, which is water-resistant to 100 meters, is powered by the automatic caliber 9R65.
